Traveling Across Italy with Kids: Our Journey Through Rome, Orvieto, Ischia, and Positano

Our family trip to Italy this summer was a whirlwind of breathtaking architecture, mouthwatering food, and unforgettable experiences. Here’s a glimpse into our Italian adventure, highlighting our stays in Rome, Orvieto, Ischia, and Positano.

Rome

We kicked off our journey in Rome, staying at a charming Airbnb right near the Vatican. Our gracious host met us at the door for a late check-in and provided excellent recommendations for our stay. We started each day with hot chocolate, cappuccinos and croissants at La Fiorentina, where we also enjoyed an excellent and quite affordable pizza our first night. The following day was filled with awe-inspiring visits to St. Peter's Basilica, featuring its magnificent Renaissance architecture and Michelangelo’s stunning dome; the Vatican Museum, housing some of the world’s most significant art collections; the Sistine Chapel, showcasing Michelangelo's frescoes; and an underground tour of the Colosseum, a marvel of ancient Roman engineering with its intricate system of tunnels and chambers. Dinner at Roscioli on Viadei Giubbonari was the perfect end to our day.

Our last day in Rome was spent exploring the Pantheon, a former Roman temple with its awe-inspiring oculus and domed roof, and the Trevi Fountain, an extravagant baroque masterpiece. We grabbed a delightful lunch at Pane e Salame and treated ourselves to gelato at Giolitti. Dinner at Tonnarello in Trastevere was amazing. The pesto pasta was one of the best things we ate in Italy, followed by the Roman specialty, cacio e pepe. Trastevere, on the west bank of the Tiber River, is a charming and lively Roman neighborhood known for its cobblestone streets, vibrant nightlife, and rich history. Its medieval character is evident in its winding streets, historic buildings, and the beautiful Santa Maria in Trastevere church. By day, visitors can explore quaint shops and cafes, while at night, the area buzzes with trattorias, pizzerias, and live music. Trastevere offers some of the best Roman cuisine and picturesque streets filled with colorful buildings and vibrant street art, making it a must-see in Rome.

Orvieto

After a scenic train ride from Rome, we arrived in Orvieto. We visited the stunning Duomo Orvieto, a Gothic cathedral renowned for its elaborate façade, frescoes, and striped marble exterior. We had an epic wine and cheese tasting at Bottega Vera Enoteca, and dinner at Trattoria la Palomba, where my seven-year-old son, Leo, tried pigeon for the first time (and probably the last, LOL).

Our stay at the charming Locanda Palazzone was surrounded by nature. We enjoyed most of our meals at the property, with seasonal dishes like Caprese salad and vegetable lasagna standing out. The peaceful setting allowed us to lounge by the pool while the kids swam. Our daughter even saved a sparrow that fell into the pool, warming it up until it flew away. The property, once a hostel in 1300, is now a functioning winery with stunning architecture and magical grounds. Its historical significance is palpable, with stone walls and medieval design elements that transport you back in time. The hiking paths and incredible wine were definite highlights of the trip.

Ischia

From Orvieto, we traveled back by train to Naples and took a short ferry to Ischia island. We stayed at Villa Caruso, a boutique hotel above San Francesco Beach. We dined at Ristorante La Rondinella, where the owner, Anna, treated us like family, and we enjoyed a stunning sunset and the best fennel & greens salad I've ever had!

We visited Castello Aragonese d’Ischia, an ancient castle perched on a volcanic rock connected to the island by a bridge. The views from the castle were spectacular, offering panoramic vistas of the surrounding sea and landscape. We toured the beautiful grounds and later enjoyed bruschetta and local wine at Bar Marco, which was a short 15 minute walk from the castle entrance. The kids swam and collected sea glass on Spiaggia dei Pescatori, with the Castello Aragonese as a picturesque backdrop.

Our last day in Ischia was spent at Negombo Hot Springs. For around 150 euro for our family of four, we enjoyed exclusive use to chaise lounge chairs on their private beach and access to over a dozen hot spring pools with a stunning view of Mezzatorre Resort in the background. The pools, with different temperatures and features, were magnificent. The kids and I especially, liked the hot and cold pools that sat side by side. We wrapped up the day with pizza at Di Meglio, which was a quaint little local spot near our hotel.

Positano

From Ischia, we took a ferry to Sorrento, where we had lunch near the port due to a delay. Sorrento was unexpectedly beautiful, and I would consider staying there in the future. We then took a ferry to Positano, which was bustling with tourists but did not disappoint. We stayed at Villa Fortuna at the top of the hill, offering spectacular views. The climb was no joke, so we used porters to transport our luggage, which was a must with kids in tow.

In Positano, we dined at Saraceno d’Oro and enjoyed the best lemon gelato and pastries at Angelo Pasticceria across the street. Our last day included a walk to Il Fornillo beach, which offers a serene beach experience with charming restaurants and preserved historical architecture, making it a hidden gem in Positano. That evening, we took a gozzo boat tour around the coast at sunset, with the kids and my husband enjoying a swim (I was too scared to jump in the ocean). We ended our Positano stay with dinner at Da Vincenzo, which had a unique interior with rocky, unfinished walls built into the hillside.

The Journey Back (to reality).

Our last day involved a rough ferry ride back to Naples, where we had just enough time to eat pizza at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, famous from the film "Eat, Pray, Love." If you plan to go here, prepare to wait. They have a number system and the vibe is similar to waiting to get into an LA nightclub in the early aughts. Unpopular opinion; the pizza in Naples was a bit of a soggy letdown. We preferred the crisp, thin crust pizza we had at La Fiorentina our first night in Italy.

To end our trip, we headed back to Rome and had dinner at Sparita in Trastevere, enjoying cacio e pepe in a parmesan bowl, per our daughter’s request as an early birthday dinner. Our Italian adventure was a mix of stunning sights, delicious food, and unforgettable experiences. From Rome’s historic landmarks to the peaceful countryside of Orvieto, the serene island of Ischia, and the bustling charm of Positano, every moment was a treasure. We left with full hearts and wonderful memories, looking forward to our next holiday.